Measurements: The pattern and resulting fit are greatly dependent on the measurements you provide. I can work from either finished garment measurements, or body measurements, which will require additional ease for comfort and freedom of movement. The amount of ease added to a garment can vary greatly depending on fabric and style. For that reason, working from finished measurements is preferable, as it requires considerably less guesswork, and may reduce the cost of the pattern to you. Either way, testing the fit by sewing up a first sample is essential. If you are making a one of a kind garment, I suggest cutting and sewing a test garment in an inexpensive fabric with similar characteristics to your final fabric. Upon review of your design, I can provide you with the points of measure that I will require. You may supply measurements in either Metric or Imperial.
Seam Allowances:
Seam allowance widths will be added according to your preference. U.S. Industry standards are typically 1/2” for exposed seams, and 1/4” for enclosed seams. Home sewn patterns are typically 3/8” (1 cm) on all seams. If you are making the garment for yourself, consider wide seam allowances at sides, which will allow for easier alterations.
Folded hems are applied per your specification, or as construction requires.
Technical Sketch: A designer’s artistic rendering of a style is important to show line and proportion, as well as the designers expectation of how the finished garment should look, however, it may lack important details that are required for construction and pattern making. If you cannot provide one, I will be happy to consult with you, and submit a technical interpretation of your design. Upon your approval of the construction details, I will begin creating the pattern. There will be a charge for this, more in-depth consultation and illustration.
Make Up & Shrinkage: Make Up is a term I use for the small amount of material taken up during the cutting and sewing process. Due to this I will typically make a pattern slightly larger than the expected finished measurements. For example, I will add approximately 1/2 inch around the chest, waist, and sweep, and 1/4 inch across shoulders, and at the bicep of a sleeve. This is different from fabric shrinkage. More fullness may be added to a pattern to allow for expected fabric shrinkage when steamed, or laundered. If you are designing and sewing a garment for yourself, I strongly recommend pre-shinking your fabric before cutting. In order for me to enlarge your pattern for expected shrinkage, you must test your fabric, and measure the percentage of shrinkage in both the warp and fill grain of the fabric. This method is not fool proof, and unexpected shrinkage may still result. Factories that manufacture garments often prefer to receive patterns that measure precisely to specifications, without any make up or shrinkage added. They will then do their own testing, and adjusting of the pattern before cutting.
Printing your Pattern/Marker: I do not currently have the ability to print and mail patterns or markers on paper. I will send your pattern/marker to you as an email file attachment that you will print at your end. If you do not have a large format printer or plotter, there are likely printing businesses in your area that will be happy to print it for you. Consult with your printing service as to which file types they prefer. I can send files as generic.plot (Gerber), AutoCad.dxf, Adobe Illustrator, and PDF. These are in addition to AccuMark.zip and ASTM/AAMA.dxf files, that require an apparel CAD software. Tell your printer that the image must be printed with no adjustment to scale, as this may distort the shape and measurements of the pattern.